I feel free! Exhilaration hits me like a wave when I think of the beach. Which for me is every second of every day! From the moment I wake up till I fall asleep, and even sometimes in my dreams. I’m all about surfing, and to tell you the truth, I would rather be out surfing than out falling in love. Love can hurt sometimes, but surfing never hurts. I feel like if everyone surfed the world would be ten times more advanced and no wars would be fought. It’s because of the special bond among all surfers; when we pass by each other we can look at one another with somewhat of a feeling of love. Not love in a sexual way, but a love for the same obsession. The obsession of waking up and feeling the rush of “Okay I’m up, lets hit the beach.” The obsession with feeling the water for the first time that day, the rush of the shore breaking on out legs as we fight through to get into deeper water. The obsession of using our bodies to become one with the board and one with the water, paddling out in one motion all in relative form. The obsession with sitting in the water musing out to the sound of nothing, but the water trickles and the birds above and beside you. And finally the obsession of seeing your first wave, the one you know you will catch, the race to even up with that wave and feel the rush of it pushing you. At that moment no drug can compare to the exaltation that wave can give you, no sex can produce such a feeling, not all the money in the world can make you as happy as that wave can. I talk from experience. I live only to surf. Of course life is a matter in which I have to play into, but surfing is my other life. My drug of choice, my power and my soul. It doesn’t take much to understand the true gravity of surfing, and how it can change your whole personality. You look at things so differently in the water. you look at life in so many perspectives that you didn’t even realize were there, but really do exist.
Have you ever been in a state of mind where you feel as though your god has touched you and held you, and said be at peace? And at that moment you were actually at peace with everything and everyone? I have. Every time I’m out there I feel it. It’s truly a feeling out of this world, because I can hate someone one minute and jump in and catch a wave and never think about how I hate that person ever again. Instead of living in hate, the waves make me want to make peace with the person after that. Each wave is different and with every wave you wake up a little more. Surfing releases your mind and soul and body. Every part of you is mush. You can look out into the ocean and feel insignificant to this world that god has made for us, a figment to the universe he set up to be discovered, but also at the same time you feel as if you’re a god yourself, the king. You feel like nothing can stop you, somewhat gifted by god himself. We surfers can say we ride on top of the water, who else can stand above water other than jesus and us? No one!
The love for surfing has fascinated the minds of the young and the old. Once you ride your first wave you will want to ride every wave, all die wishing they could ride one more. I hope my last breath will be just as I hit the water off a wave when it’s my time. Surfing is not a sport, it’s not just a lifestyle, it’s something greater to us. It keeps us moving, it pumps the blood that keeps me alive, It fuels my love, my sanctity, my soul. I will forever surf.
I am forever dazzled by the ardor surfers have for surfing. I feel as if I’ve fallen off the ship of the blind into a sea of confusion and only a surfboard can be my savior. I say: Never have I surfed. But I might as well say: Never have I sailed with the spirit of the sea, pulled by the winds of wonder. This is a sacred rite and I must taste it.